Onam Sadya: Health and Harmony on the Banana Leaf

For a Malayali, Onam resonates with a feeling of pride and celebration often associated with delicious Onam Sadya, Athapookkalam, Onathappan, Vallam kali, gifts and much more. The festival of Onam is believed to be based on the story of the benevolent demon King Mahabali (the king of the asuras), a popular ruler of Kerala. A generous king, his popularity began to threaten the gods. After Indra (the king of the devas) was defeated by Mahabali, the devas sought refuge in Vishnu, who agreed to restore Indra to power. Vishnu visited him disguised as a beggar in his Vamana Avatar, (form) and asked for some land that could be covered by only three steps.  The king agreed and Vamana took three steps. With the first two steps, he took back the heavens, the Earth, and the space between. With no place left to fulfil his promise, Mahabali offered his head, and Vamana sent him to Pathala (netherworld) with his third step. Mahabali was, however, granted his one solitary wish of visiting his kingdom and his subjects once a year which is joyously celebrated as Onam, commemorating the beloved king’s visit.

Onam is celebrated on the 22nd nakshatra (star) Thiruvonam in the month of Chingam in the Malayalam calendar, which usually falls between August and September in the Gregorian calendar. The celebration starts from the day of Atham nakshthram ending in Chathayam. The main four days of Onam are Uthradam, Thiruvonam, (the main day) Avittom and Chathayam which marks the end of the ten days of the festival season.

Onam is considered a harvest festival as this is celebrated during the Chingam month, which is the harvest season in Kerala, a time to show gratitude for nature’s bounty.  The monsoon rains that come before Chingam revitalize the farms with mineral-rich sediments, also a time to thoroughly clean yards, farms, houses, and cowsheds.

It’s a time for new beginnings. People wear new clothes, especially the traditional Kerala style Kasavu Set mundu or set saree for women, skirt and blouse / half saree for girls, kasavu / kara Mundu and shirt for men and boys. On this special day, the senior member of the family offers gifts such as new clothes to the younger ones, ushering in a season of everything new.

Onam celebrations include: 

AthaPookkalam: intricate designs using flowers, made on the ground consisting of ten rings which indicate the ten-day rituals starting from the Malayalam nakshthram of Atham.

Onathappan: a pyramid-shaped clay or wooden structure that is a key part of Onam celebrations, also known as Thrikkakara Appan or Thrikakkarappan. It symbolizes Lord Vishnu’s avatar Vamana and for some people, it also symbolizes king Mahabali.  These are idols intended for decorative purposes only.

Onasadya: A grand traditional colourful vegetarian feast, a symbol of prosperity, served on banana leaves referred to as the thooshanila, featuring a variety of over 25 traditional dishes having many health benefits. It is not just any grand feast; rather a culinary spread that keeps in mind the well-being of health. It is laid mindfully with the dishes being in alignment with the digestive system. Some of its key features are listed below.

Banana leaf : as the hot food is placed on the banana leaf, the polyphenols in it are released. It mixes with the food after which when it enters the body, it reduces bacterial activity as it has immune-boosting properties.

Vegetables: the dishes for Onam Sadhya are made with a variety of locally grown seasonal vegetables that provide a diverse array of vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants.

Sambhar: some of the vegetables used in this curry like drumsticks, snake gourd, cucumber, pumpkin, carrots are not only rich in nutritional values but helps boost the body’s metabolism as well. The spices used have anti-inflammatory properties and also enhances digestion.

Balanced nutrients: the Onam Sadhya includes dishes like avial (mixed vegetable stew) and olan (pumpkin and coconut stew) that provide a balance of carbohydrates, proteins, and healthy fats.

Coconuts: coconuts are generously used, such as coconut oil, coconut milk, and freshly scraped coconut. They help reduce high blood pressure, lose weight, boost energy, and are good for skin and heart.

Red rice: Keralites mainly use red rice which is rich in antioxidants and magnesium.

Jaggery: used mainly to make payasams, jaggery is rich in antioxidants and the minerals present are known to detoxify the body.

Ginger: ginger is a key ingredient, especially in pickles and chutneys which helps manage nausea, arthritis, lowers blood sugar levels, controls cholesterol and keeps the mouth germ free.

Buttermilk: buttermilk is rich in nutrients like potassium, calcium, phosphorus, zinc, and riboflavin. The good bacteria in buttermilk act as probiotics to help digest meals. That is why this is served as the last item in the sadya.

Although predominantly celebrated in Kerala, other regions in India and the world also honour it, as Malayalis today are in every nook and corner of the globe. Since Onam is recognised as the state festival of Kerala, the government organises this with a spectrum of cultural events attracting tourists from all over, thereby, becoming a platform for sociocultural exchange. The Sadya is symbolic of not just this grandeur but also a reminder that for a community to thrive, there has to be unity and compassion where the differences are meant to complement each other, to draw people closer and not apart. Just as the sour, the spicy and the sweet, the vegetables of multiple shapes, size, taste and colour, share equal space on the banana leaf, each with its own share of goodness and benefits; a community also has its assortment of flavours which when respected and valued would lend a beautiful harmonious colour to life. Onam symbolizes that spirit of joy and unity associated with Mahabali’s rule, and is a reminder of the values of kindness, generosity, and the importance of community, encapsulated on the humble banana leaf for everyone to partake, relish and enjoy.